Installation & Compatibility

Contents

01Installation — US Wall Boxes 02Basic Wiring Terms 03Single-Pole Switch 043-Way Switch 054-Way Switch 06Dimmer Basics (TRIAC) 070–10V / 1–10V Dimmer 0812–24V PWM Dimmer 09Fan Speed Controls 10Retro Toggle Terminals 11Troubleshooting

GetSwitches

Installation — US Wall Boxes

GetSwitches plates are designed for standard US single-gang and multi-gang electrical boxes with standard spacing.

2-Screw System

Cleaner look, fewer visible screws

What makes it different: Standard plates use 4 screws per gang. GetSwitches plates use 2 visible brass screws (included) for a cleaner, less cluttered look — while keeping everything you need in the box.
  1. Turn power off at the breaker and confirm with a voltage tester. If you're not experienced with electrical work, hire a licensed electrician.
  2. Wire the switch module inside the wall box (line / load / travelers / ground as required for your configuration).
  3. Attach the switch module to the brass wall plate first, before mounting to the wall.
  4. Use the included small plastic nut to hold the module in place while you position the full assembly.
  5. Screw the complete assembly into the wall box using the 2 included brass screws.
GetSwitches installation diagram showing how the switch module attaches to the brass wall plate before being screwed into the wall box with 2 brass screws.

GetSwitches 2-screw installation assembly

Reference

Basic Wiring Terms

US/Canada standard wire types and terminal labels used throughout this guide.


Line / Hot — Black

Power coming from the breaker. Brings current to the switch or device.


Load — Black or Red

Power going out to the light or device being controlled.


Neutral — White

Return path to the panel. Required for outlets and some dimmers or smart devices.


Ground — Bare Copper or Green

Safety path for fault current. Connects to the green screw and metal box ground if present.


Traveler Wires

Run between 3-way and 4-way switches. Connect to traveler terminals (not the Common).


Common Terminal

The dedicated terminal on a 3-way switch. Connects to either Line (power in) or Load (power out), depending on which switch it is.

Wiring Configuration

Single-Pole Switch

One switch controls one light from one location. The most common residential setup.

Single-Pole

One location, one fixture

  1. 1
    Connect Line / Hot from the wall to the switch Line (or Common / Hot) terminal.
  2. 2
    Connect Load (wire going to the light) to the switch Load terminal.
  3. 3
    Connect Ground to the green screw and to the metal box ground if present.
  4. 4
    Neutral (white) wires typically stay tied together at the back of the box for standard mechanical switches — they do not connect to the switch itself.
GetSwitches single-pole wiring diagram showing Line connected to hot terminal, Load to load terminal, and Ground to green screw.

Single-pole wiring — GetSwitches

Wiring Configuration

3-Way Switch

Two switches control one light from two locations — hallways, staircases, large rooms.

3-Way

Two-location control

Key points

  • Each 3-way switch has one Common terminal and two Traveler terminals.
  • Switch A's Common connects to Line (power in from the panel).
  • Switch B's Common connects to Load (power out to the light).
  • Two traveler wires run between Switch A and Switch B — either wire can go to either traveler terminal.
  1. 1
    Switch A (power side): Connect Line / Hot to the Common terminal on Switch A.
  2. 2
    Connect the two Traveler wires to the two Traveler terminals on Switch A.
  3. 3
    Switch B (light side): Connect the two traveler wires to the two Traveler terminals on Switch B.
  4. 4
    Connect Load (wire to the light) to the Common terminal on Switch B.
  5. 5
    Connect Grounds to the green screw on both switches and to the metal box ground where present.
3-way switch wiring diagram: Line to Common on Switch A, two traveler wires between switches, Load from Common on Switch B to the light fixture.

3-way wiring — GetSwitches

Wiring Configuration

4-Way Switch

Three or more locations control one light. A 4-way switch is placed between two 3-way switches.

4-Way

Three or more locations

Configuration rules

  • Use two 3-way switches at the ends and one 4-way switch in the middle for three control locations.
  • For four or more locations, add additional 4-way switches in the middle of the chain.
  • Neutral wires typically bypass all switches and connect only at the light fixture — unless your specific device requires a neutral connection.
4-way switch wiring diagram showing two 3-way switches at the ends with a 4-way switch placed between them, connected by traveler wires.

4-way wiring — GetSwitches

Dimmer Technology

Dimmer Basics — TRIAC / Phase-Cut

Most in-wall dimmers for US homes use TRIAC (phase-cut) dimming to control the AC waveform.

TRIAC

120V AC phase-cut dimming

How it works: TRIAC dimmers reduce light output by cutting a portion of each AC power cycle, lowering the average voltage delivered to the bulb. For best results, always use bulbs and drivers labelled "dimmable" and compatible with TRIAC or phase-cut dimming.
✓  Usually works well
  • IncandescentFully compatible. Standard choice for TRIAC dimmers.
  • HalogenFully compatible. Smooth, continuous dimming.
  • Dimmable LED bulbsCompatible when labelled "dimmable." Verify packaging before purchasing.
✕  Often causes issues
  • Non-dimmable LEDsFlickering, buzzing, or damage to the bulb and/or dimmer.
  • Most CFLsIncompatible unless packaging explicitly states dimmability.
  • Some electronic transformersMay require a trailing-edge dimmer unless specifically rated compatible.

Dimmable LED strips — correct wiring order

Never connect a dimmer directly to a low-voltage LED strip. Always use a TRIAC-dimmable LED driver between the dimmer and the LED fixture.

Low-Voltage Control

0–10V / 1–10V Dimmer (Signal Dimming)

Signal-level controllers that connect to a LED driver's dedicated dimming terminals — not a 120V line replacement.

0–10V Signal

Driver-side dimming control

How it works: 0–10V (or 1–10V) controllers send a low-voltage signal to the LED driver's dimming input terminals — typically labelled DIM+ and DIM−. The driver uses this signal to adjust output brightness. The 120V mains supply to the driver is always on; only the dim signal changes.

Important distinctions

  • These connect to the driver's dimming terminals (DIM+ / DIM−), not to the 120V hot/neutral wiring.
  • They do not replace a standard 120V wall switch or dimmer unless your specific lighting system is designed for 0–10V wall control.
  • Requires an LED driver that supports 0–10V (or 1–10V) dimming input — confirm on the driver's datasheet before purchasing.
0-10V dimmer wiring diagram showing the DIM+ and DIM- signal wires connecting from the wall control to the LED driver's dimming input terminals.

0–10V signal dimming — GetSwitches

Low-Voltage Control

12–24V PWM Dimmer (DC Dimming)

DC-side dimmers for 12–24V lighting systems — not for 120V AC wiring.

12–24V PWM

DC circuit dimming

How it works: PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) dimmers rapidly switch the 12V or 24V DC supply on and off to control average power delivered to the LED strip or fixture. The faster the switching and the wider the on-pulse, the brighter the output — all invisibly fast to the human eye.

Use cases & restrictions

  • Designed for: 12–24V DC lighting — LED strips in RVs, boats, under-cabinet setups, and standalone LED strip systems with an external power supply.
  • Not for 120V AC wiring — these dimmers operate on the low-voltage DC side, after the power supply.
  • Not for motors or fans — PWM dimming is incompatible with inductive loads like fan or pump motors.
12-24V PWM dimmer wiring diagram showing the dimmer placed on the DC output side between the power supply and the LED strip.

12–24V PWM DC dimming — GetSwitches

Wiring order for PWM setups: 120V supply → power supply / LED driver → PWM dimmer → LED strip. The PWM dimmer is always wired on the DC output side of the power supply.

Special Application

Fan Speed Controls

Dedicated fan speed controls for standard ceiling paddle fans wired for wall control.

Fan Control

Standard paddle fans only

Important: GetSwitches fan speed controls are not light dimmers and must not be used on lighting circuits. They are intended solely for standard ceiling paddle fans that are wired for wall speed control.
Not compatible with: smart fans, remote-controlled fans, fans with built-in electronic modules or receivers, or fans that use an internal speed-control receiver. Using an incompatible fan may damage the fan motor, the control, or both.

Product Reference

Retro Toggle Terminals

CE GetSwitches retro toggle models use a 3-way style terminal layout, but can also be wired as a single-pole switch.

CE Retro Toggle

Terminal layout & wiring

Terminal guide

  • Terminal 2 (HOT / Common): Connects to Line (power in) on the power-source switch, or to Load (power out) on the light-side switch.
  • Terminals 1 and 3 (Travelers): Connect to the traveler wires running to the other 3-way switch in the circuit.
  • Ground: Connect as required — device ground screw and/or metal box ground per local code.

Using as a single-pole (on/off) switch

  1. 1
    Connect the Hot / Line wire (power in) to Terminal 2.
  2. 2
    Connect the Load wire (to your light or device) to Terminal 1 or Terminal 3 — either one works.
  3. 3
    Cap any unused traveler terminal with a wire nut. Connect ground as required for your box and local code.
GetSwitches CE Retro Toggle wiring diagram showing Terminal 2 as the Common/Hot, and Terminals 1 and 3 as Traveler terminals, with single-pole wiring configuration.

CE Retro Toggle terminal diagram — GetSwitches

Support

Troubleshooting

Common issues and what to check first before calling an electrician.

  • Nothing turns onVerify the breaker is on, confirm Line/Load orientation is correct, and on a 3-way circuit check that the Common wire is on the correct terminal — not a Traveler terminal.
  • 3-way behaves incorrectlyThe Common wire is likely connected to a Traveler terminal. Identify the Common wire using the labelling on the original switch or a continuity tester, then re-seat it on the correct terminal.
  • LED flickering or buzzingConfirm the bulb or driver is labelled "dimmable" and rated compatible with TRIAC / phase-cut dimming. Also verify you are within the dimmer's minimum and maximum load requirements.
  • Device feels warmMild warmth during operation is normal. Excessive or uncomfortable heat can indicate the load exceeds the device's rated capacity, or that the load type is incompatible. Reduce the load or verify compatibility.

Need help?

Something look different in your box?

If your wiring doesn't match the diagrams shown here, stop and consult a licensed electrician. Our support team can also help with product-specific questions.

Contact Support Back to Shop →

Disclaimer

This wiring and installation information is provided for general guidance only, based on common North American (US/Canada) wiring practices. Every home, wall box, and circuit can be different, and local electrical codes and inspection requirements vary by jurisdiction.

It is the customer's and/or installer's responsibility to confirm the correct wiring method for their specific application and to ensure all work is performed safely and in compliance with applicable codes (including NEC/CEC and local regulations).

GetSwitches is not responsible or liable for improper installation, incorrect wiring, misuse, damage, or injury resulting from the installation or use of any product. If you are unsure about any step, stop and consult a licensed electrician.