Installation & Compatibility

Electrical Wiring & Installation Guide (US / Canada)

Installing a switch, dimmer, outlet, or control is straightforward when you understand the basics. This guide covers common North American wiring setups used with GetSwitches products. If anything in your wall box looks different than shown here, stop and contact a licensed electrician.

Installation (US Wall Boxes)

GetSwitches switches and plates are designed to fit standard US electrical wall boxes (single-gang, multi-gang, and standard spacing).

Installation is just a little different from plates that use 4 screws per gang. Our plates use 2 visible brass screws (included with your order) for a cleaner look.

How it installs:

  1. Turn power off at the breaker and confirm with a voltage tester. If you’re not experienced, hire a licensed electrician.
  2. Wire the switch module in the wall box (line/load/travelers/ground as required).
  3. Attach the switch module to the brass wall plate first.
  4. Use the included small plastic nut to help hold the module in place while you position the assembly.
  5. Screw the full assembly into the wall box using the 2 included brass screws.

Result: fewer visible screws and everything you need in the box.

Safety first

  • Turn off power at the breaker before touching any wires.
  • Confirm power is off using a voltage tester.
  • Follow NEC/CEC and all local codes.
  • Use copper conductors only unless your device explicitly allows otherwise.

Basic wiring terms (US standard)

  • Line / Hot (often black): power coming from the breaker.
  • Load (often black or red): power going to the light or device.
  • Neutral (white): return path. Required for outlets and some dimmers/smart devices.
  • Ground (bare copper/green): safety path for fault current.
  • Traveler wires: used between 3-way and 4-way switches.
  • Common terminal: the special terminal on a 3-way switch (not a traveler).

1) Single-pole switch (one location controls one light)

Single-pole is the most common setup. One switch controls one light from one location.

Typical wiring steps

  1. Connect Line/Hot from the wall to the switch Line (or common/hot) terminal.
  2. Connect Load (to the light) to the switch Load terminal.
  3. Connect Ground to the green screw (and to the metal box ground if present).
  4. Neutral wires usually stay tied together in the back of the box for a standard mechanical switch.

2) 3-way switch (two locations control one light)

3-way wiring lets you control one light from two different locations (hallways, stairs). You need two 3-way switches and two travelers between them.

Key points

  • Each 3-way switch has one Common and two Traveler terminals.
  • One switch’s Common connects to Line (power in).
  • The other switch’s Common connects to Load (power out to the light).
  • Travelers run between the two switches.

Typical wiring steps (general)

  1. On Switch A (power side): connect Line/Hot to the Common terminal.
  2. Connect the two Traveler wires to the two traveler terminals on Switch A.
  3. On Switch B (light side): connect the two travelers to the two traveler terminals on Switch B.
  4. Connect Load (to the light) to the Common terminal on Switch B.
  5. Connect grounds as required (device ground + box ground if present).

3) 4-way switch (three or more locations control one light)

4-way wiring is used when you need three (or more) switch locations. A 4-way switch goes between two 3-way switches.

  • Use two 3-way switches (ends) and one 4-way switch (middle) for three locations.
  • For more locations, add additional 4-way switches in the middle.
  • Neutrals typically bypass switches and connect at the light (unless your device requires neutral).

4) Dimmer basics (TRIAC / phase-cut dimmers)

Most in-wall dimmers for US homes dim by controlling the AC waveform (phase-cut). For best results, use bulbs and drivers that are labeled “dimmable” and compatible with TRIAC / phase-cut dimming.

Compatibility quick guide

  • Usually works well: incandescent, halogen, and dimmable LED bulbs.
  • Often causes issues: non-dimmable LEDs, many CFLs, and some electronic transformers unless specifically rated compatible.
  • Low-voltage LED strips require a dimmable driver. The dimmer controls the 120V input to the driver.

Correct order for dimmable LED strips: 120V power → dimmer → TRIAC-dimmable LED driver → LED strip/fixture.

5) Low voltage dimmers (0–10V and 12–24V PWM)

0–10V / 1–10V driver control (signal dimming)

These controllers connect to the LED driver’s dimming terminals (often labeled DIM+ and DIM−). They do not replace a standard 120V wall dimmer unless your lighting system is designed for 0–10V control.

12–24V PWM dimmers (DC dimming)

These dimmers are for 12–24V DC lighting circuits (common in RVs, boats, under-cabinet setups, and LED strip systems). They are not for 120V AC wiring and they are not for motors or fans.

6) Fan speed controls

Our Fan speed controls are not light dimmers. They are intended for standard ceiling paddle fans that are wired for wall control. They are not compatible with many smart fans, remote-controlled fans, or fans with built-in electronic modules/receivers.

Retro toggle switch terminals (GetSwitches)

CE GetSwitches retro toggle models use a 3-way style terminal layout:

  • Terminal 2 (HOT / Common): connects to the power source (Line) or to the Load, depending on which box you’re wiring.
  • Terminals 1 and 3 (Travelers): connect to the traveler wires that run to the other 3-way switch.
  • Grounding: connect ground as required by your installation (device ground and/or metal box ground, per local code).

Using the same switch as a single-pole (On/Off) switch

  1. Connect the Hot/Line wire (power) to Terminal 2.
  2. Connect the Load wire (to your light/device) to Terminal 1 or Terminal 3 (either one works).
  3. Cap any unused traveler terminal and follow grounding requirements for your box/device.

Troubleshooting tips

  • Nothing turns on: verify breaker, verify line/load orientation, verify common wire on 3-way.
  • 3-way behaves incorrectly: the common wire may be on the wrong terminal.
  • LED flicker or buzzing: confirm bulb/driver is dimmable and compatible, and confirm min/max load requirements.
  • Warm device: mild warmth can be normal; excessive heat can indicate overload or an incompatible load.

Disclaimer

This wiring and installation information is provided for general guidance only, based on common North American (US/Canada) wiring practices. Every home, wall box, and circuit can be different, and local electrical codes and inspection requirements may vary by jurisdiction.

It is the customer’s and/or installer’s responsibility to confirm the correct wiring method for their specific application and to ensure all work is performed safely and in compliance with applicable codes (including NEC/CEC and local regulations).

GetSwitches is not responsible or liable for improper installation, incorrect wiring, misuse, damage, or injury resulting from installation or use of any product. If you are unsure about any step, stop and consult a licensed electrician.